Hone your glacier skills, climb the Pic du Glacier d'Arsine and summit the famous Dôme des Ecrins in a weekend! A mountaineering trip away from the crowds in the Ecrins National Park.
Holiday Highlights:
- Carefully prepared itinerary to optimise chance of successful 4000m summit
- Local and experienced UIAGM guides
- Intensive mountaineering weekend
- Avoid Mont Blanc and its stream of tourists for a more authentic mountaineering experience
- Book with a responsible travel company
Climb in one of the hidden gems of the Alps, the Ecrins National Park, one of the largest, wildest and most dramatic mountain ranges in France and bag a big 4000m summit!
This is a mountaineering and alpinism trip geared to preparing you for a successful climb of the Dome des Ecrins 4015m (mountaineering grade: Facile / Easy) in the limited time of a weekend! The trip includes a day of glacier and mountaineering skills and technique and an acclimatisation climb of Pic du Glacier d’Arsine 3364m (grade: Facile / Easy) before tackling the Dome des Ecrins.
The Ecrins Massif:
The lesser known Ecrins massif doesn’t get the same number of visitors as the Mont Blanc range but it is the largest National Park in France. In total there are 170km2 of glaciers suspended from over 100 towering summits over 3000m. It’s also rich in flora and fauna with ibex, chamois, golden eagles, wild boar, marmots and even wolves and in the summer months you are sure to see the valley covered in flowers.
The Dome des Ecrins 4015m is one of the highest summits in the Ecrins National Park, just behind the Barre des Ecrins 4102m. With easy access, a 'facile' graded route and some of the best views in the Alps, it a must for all mountaineers.
The Mountaineering Challenge:
On the first day of this trip, you will focus on glacier skills on the Glacier Blanc - an opportunity to practice any glacier and alpinism skills that you have used before and learn some new ones!
After a night in the Refuge du Glacier Blanc, you will set off to the Pic du Glacier d’Arsine. This is a mixed route mainly on snow with some rock scrambling (3a). The aim of the climb is to help your body get used to climbing at above 3000m. You will have a magnificent view of the Dome des Ecrins and the Glacier Blanc throughout this climb.
After spending the night, this time in the Refuge des Ecrins, your aim on the last day will be to climb the Dome des Ecrins 4015m. You will cross the glacier in the early morning. The light at this time is incredible, giving the Dome a beautiful red tinge. You will weave your way up the large snow face of the glacier, avoiding seracs and crevasses all the way to the summit.
Your Guide and Safety:
This summit involves traversing a large glacier with crevasses and seracs and it is at high altitude so the risk of being caught in bad weather or being the victim of an avalanche or falling serac is real.
All the guides we use for this trip are fully qualified UIAGM high mountain guides which is the highest qualification possible in alpinism and mountaineering. We also choose local guides to the region as we know that an understanding and knowledge of the recent climatic conditions, freeze thaw activity, recent avalanches, rockfall and behaviour of the seracs are extremely important in judging risk. The guide ratio is 1 guide to 3 clients for the summit of the Dome des Ecrins.
Our guides will have the final say on whether they consider the level of risk is low enough to attempt the summits on this trip safely. If there is any doubt we will choose an alternative route in the same or another area.
This itinerary is designed to prepare you for a successful ascent of the Dôme des Écrins (4015m) within the short timeframe of a long weekend.
Your intensive weekend begins with a day to learn, practise and refine key glacier travel and mountaineering skills. You will then make an acclimatisation climb above 3000m to help your body adjust to the altitude, before attempting the summit of the Dôme des Écrins (4015m) on the final day.
Please note that we may need to adapt the itinerary if weather or mountain conditions are not favourable. However, wherever possible and safe to do so, we will follow the planned programme.
Safety is always our priority. In the vast majority of cases, the preparation and acclimatisation built into the weekend are enough to ensure participants are ready for the ascent. On rare occasions, however, if your guide feels that continuing on the summit route would not be safe for you or for the group, they may decide that you remain at the refuge while the rest of the group attempts the summit, before descending together afterwards.
Pré de Madame Carle is the starting point for this trip and we aim to set off mid morning from here.
You need to make your own way to the area. If you are on public transport the guide can collect you from L'Argentière-la-Bessée train stations (both of which are on the night train route from Paris to Briançon and Marseille to Briançon train line) or nearby accommodations, on his way in.
Once all the group are all together, we will sort out equipment for the 3 days and start the walk up to the Glacier Blanc.
Starting altitude: 1874m
Summit altitude: 2542m
Ascent: 668m
Average climbing time: 2 1/2 hours plus a few hours to practice skills on the glacier.
Pacing yourself and stamina are key in mountaineering, as routes often involve long days with a lot of ascent and descent. This is a relatively straightforward walk on a well-marked path which takes you to the foot of the glacier. Here you will start your glacier skills.
Safety is of primary concern for any mountaineer. The purpose of the day is to go through and practice the essential safety techniques used in alpinism with a focus on skills needed in glacier crossings.
You will learn or revise how to put crampons on and basic crampon techniques, how to move together on a rope, what distances to keep between you in different circumstances, how to use an ice axe effectively, how to stop yourself if you fall. You will also learn how to recognise dangers and look after your fellow mountaineers and yourself whilst climbing.
In June, early in the mountaineering season, glacier crevasses should be filled up or covered with snow. As the season progresses the snow melts, the crevasses open and become more obvious to see. However, the glacier is always moving and there is always a risk of falling into an unnoticed crevasse! This can be deadly so avoiding them and knowing how to save someone if they do drop in is a very important skill.
After having spent the day going through different techniques you will continue on the GR (footpath) feeling very safe and ready for anything to the Refuge du Glacier Blanc ( 2542m) where a hot dinner will be waiting for you.
The Pic du Glacier d’Arsines (3364m) is a beautiful mixed route, mainly on snow with some scrambling. You set of from the Refuge du Glacier Blanc on the path towards tonight’s hut, the Refuge des Écrins. Then you will via off to the right into a wide couloir of snow. You will climb up for about 3.5 hours and throughout the climb you will have superb views of the Dome des Ecrins.
Starting altitude: 2542m
Summit altitude: 3364m
Ascent: 820m
Average climbing time: 3.5 hours
You will be woken up at 4H00, this early start is for safety reasons. As the day progresses the sun melts the snow and ice in the high mountains. This thawing increases the risk of rock fall and avalanches. It is also very hard work walking in soft snow where you sink in up to your thighs. It is best to be coming down while the snow is still hard and can take your weight!
So after a typical French mountain refuge breakfast which consists of bread, jam or honey with a choice of tea, coffee or hot chocolate you will see off into the dark. Having already prepared your bag the night before, you will put your head lamp on and join the path that takes you to the refuge des Écrins.
Once you reach the snowy couloir, you will rope up and start the climb up. The sun will start coming up while you in the climb and the light and colours over the mountains is an amazing sight. Towards the top of the climb you will reach the start of a ridge. Here it is time to do a bit of scrambling to reach the summit.
There are stunning views of the Écrins massif including la Meije, Pelvoux, and the Glacier Blanc and Glacier Noir. Once you've taken in these breathtaking views it's time to head down. Once down, you will then make your way to the Refuge des Écrins (3175m) which is further up the valley. You have the option to order a hot lunch or snacks here (additional cost). In the evening you will be served a well-earned hot meal (included in the package).
You can see the dramatic ridge of the Barre des Ecrins and its little sister, the Dome des Écrins(4015m), your objective for the weekend, from the refuge.
All there is between you and this majestic mountain is a glacier, some snow and ice, ...and a few hours of physical exertion! Now it’s your turn to conquer it!
Starting altitude: 3175m
Summit altitude: 4015m
Ascent: 840m
Descent: 2230m
Average climbing time: 3 - 4 hours ascent and 2 - 3 hours descent (to Refuge des Écrins) and 1.5 hours to reach Pré de Madame Carle.
After another early alpine start you will make your way down from the refuge to the glacier. Here you put your crampons on and rope up and you’re ready for the off.
You will reach the Col des Écrins at 3,300m by following the edge of Glacier Blanc. Here there are incredible views across the North Face. The sun rises behind you as you make your way across the glacier and gives a beautiful rosy effect on the Dome des Écrins.
From the Col des Écrins your guide will pick a route that goes up through the huge snow slope, weaving your way up the North East Face between seracs and around crevasses. You’ll arrive at a natural col where you will continue your path until you reach the summit of the Dome.
Here all your hard work will be deservedly rewarded with spectacular views across the vast Écrins National Park. You will then come back down the same way - although it goes by much quicker and the views and descent techniques are very different from the ones you used going up. It doesn’t feel at all like you are retracing your steps.
You will then make your way back down to Pré de Madame Carle, arriving exhausted but very happy!
You will have the option to stop and order lunch at the refuge or head down to the valley and eat there. Lunches are at your own cost.
Who Will Love This Trip?
Amateur mountaineers looking to bag their first 4000m summit will love this trip. You need to have a high level of fitness and some experience of alpinism so you are comfortable in a high mountain environment. Ideally you will be familiar with moving together on a rope and have done some walking in crampons. These skills will be revisited on your first day and reinforced throughout the trip with your guide but a basic initial knowledge and understanding is important for your own self confidence and safety of the group.
Have a look at our mountaineering kit list for advice on what to bring.
You might also be interested in our weekend Barre des Ecrins Mountaineering trip or our Mountaineering Week in the Ecrins.
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- Restaurant evening meals and drinks in Gap in the evenings
- Picnic or restaurant lunches (some days will include the possibility of a restaurant lunch and others will require a picnic)
- Your journey to and from Gap
- Tips for the guide
In search of a bit of a challenge this summer I ascended the Dome Des Ecrins with wonderful guides Bernard and Pierre. After never having worn a pair of crampons before, we had a fun and well scaffolded introduction to m…
The trip starts from Pré de Madame Carle on the first morning. The closest train station is L'Argentière-la-Bessée which has various connections including an overnight sleeper directly from Paris and is on the Marseille to Briançon train line. The guide can pick you up from the station / local accommodation and take you to Pré de Madame Carle or if you have your own car you can meet directly there.
Dome des Ecrins - Mountaineering Trip in the Alps
Hone your glacier skills, climb the Pic du Glacier d'Arsine and summit the famous Dôme des Ecrins in a weekend! A mountaineering trip away from the crowds in the Ecrins National Park.
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